Morning everyone! previously I mentioned that I'll introdue you to an equipment that is needed (for me) while painting.
All customizers may face the problem of moisture that always ruin color after paint e.g. getting diffuse (for clear type of color), getting sanded surface, discoloration etc. So many try not to paint during raining season, some paint it on sunshine. But even you do, you may face it sometimes.
For me I've been solving this problem for years. Finally I satisfy with this one I made it up and all that problems are gone. Let's see.
Moisture remover
It's simple, firsly you need to find any metal container (for good conductivity).
Then cut at front, make the cover that should be easy for open / close.
Set up infrared heater module (it must not touch to any area due to it will getting too hot and burn your wires, casing etc.) So I set-up it as hanging by steel wires.
I used dimmer to adjust the amount of infrared. It's flexible for different size of model.
If you have humidity meter, use it (only probe type) as per photo.
Before turning on heater, humidity read as 67%
(this amount is always ruin the spray paint.)
After tuning on heater, temp goes to about 50 C, and humidity goes to 32%
- temp is not much effect to color (but to plastic model) so keep it around 45-50C
- humidity value that is good for paint process should be around 30-40
caution: becareful probe may be destroied by infrared heater. (you must understand that it's not heater but infrared ray that makes the heat inside probe too) So once value goes around 45 C, you should stop heater. That is all about my moisture remover.
And the reason that I do not buy the finish good heater set is it's not reach my requirement.
Once we grinding, sanding. There are lots of plastic particles around. It needs to be washed. To protect water gets into eyes & hole of laser pointer, I cover them by marking tape.
After washing, marking tapes are ruin.
I replace them with the clear type. Due to I can see the edge to cut profile easily.
(the covered area will be silver color, so need to cut profile precisely)
Now ready for painting.
I use primer grey #1,200, you can use white, but need more rounds to finish all white.
It's time to use our oven (moisture remover) stay it in 2 minutes.
After primer step (surfacer) you will see the defect e.g. burrs easy.
Then deburrs, sanding as your desire.
Repeat the previous process again.
Now Optimus prime head gets ready to be paint base color (blue). An issue is which blue is correct? My opinion, it's a mixture of blue, dark blue & little purple. So I selected them up to mix.
insert it into air brush
I set pressure of air about 10 psi.
Test spraying
Once color gets ready, put our model into oven again for warm surface
(this way improve painting result)
Start spraying all over, but thin leyer. Then put it into oven.
From oven, spray it 2nd round.
Repeat it as 3rd round
finished 4 rounds in all.
to see result of side view.
result of back view.
zoom in to see the parting line on head. Now it's gone.
side view parting line is gone too.
Even we would not need this shiny effect on the finish job at last, but I'll let you know that we got the most shiny (as color can be) due to our oven performance.
And it seems spending long time to get only base color, but I can say you need it. As I know some customizer spray it more than 5 layers.
This process is very important to me. If you pay attention onto it, you may not have to rework and get bored on painting.
I hope you guys enjoy this part more or less.
Next step (part16-6) will be paint brush skill.
If you are interested in brush painting, do not miss next part.
thanks for watching
Bye for now ^^
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